I wanted a lightly used zx-25r, light weight, high revving, it would be a fun way to get around the city pretending I’m a sportsbike revving to 17000 rpm while barely generating 50 hp. But there was an even lighter used, newer zx-4rr for the same price. Not what I wanted, but obviously more bike=better.
But then there was a 2014 z1000 in great condition for the same price so I really didn’t have a choice in the matter.
I have to push really hard to keep this thing leaned over, my feet feel like they’re way too far back, I can’t split like I normally do because it’s so big, my thighs get cooked, there’s literally no reason to leave first gear it might as well be an automatic scooter that likes to do wheelies.
Anyone have any advice how I can make it more comfortable or enjoyable?
You must log in or register to comment.
Sell it to me and buy that 400, obviously.
This is not the right bike for you and the type of riding you do. If you bought this at a dealer, you might try seeing if they’ll take it back in exchange for the other bike you almost went with. Otherwise, selling it and buying the bike that works better is the way to go.
Nah, I’m too stubborn for that.
it might as well be an automatic scooter that likes to do wheelies.
That cracked me up, thanks for the chuckle.
It’s a ~70lbs/30kg heavier bike with a 2inch/5cm longer wheelbase, and wider heavier tires compared to the zx4rr. All of those factors will lead to more steering effort. Not much can be done about that, it’s the physics of the bike you chose. They’re far more stable at higher speeds, less desirable in city traffic.
Assuming these are the limiting factors. Looks like you don’t even have mirrors, so the handle bars can be swapped to a shorter bar as well but this is just going to make steering even more difficult. I see you have crash pegs sticking out the side. Not much reason to shorten the above if those are the widest part.
You could put an aftermarket rearset on to adjust the foot peg position but they’re generally not cheap and part of the reason they’re positioned the way they are is so you can use your legs to keep you planted when you launch it. You’ll need to look for some that allow adjustment in the opposite direction from usual. Most move them further up and further back for track riding from oem positions.
One of the bikes I own is a 600 supersport and it wouldn’t be my first choice for a daily unless nearly your entire commute is highway speeds. Even mine can break every speed limit in the country in first gear.
So turns out the tires were just a bit low, it falls into turns with very little effort now.
Glad it was something simple and it fixed it for you. My comments above are relative. I have a 950 standard that if you even think about turning you’re already turning. I’d daily that thing everytime over my 600 supersport. The supersport is work. It’s fun for its purpose though.
Yeah, now the issue that I’ve noticed is that the rear brake does basically nothing and the front brake gets squishy with even the moderate riding possible on Hanoi streets, gonna take it to a kawa dealership see if they can figure the issue, maybe replace all the hoses with braided ones.
The private dealer I bought it from put DOT 3 in while the manual specifies 4 and didn’t inflate the tires so I’m not sure they’ll be much use diagnosing issues.
I’d start with just bleeding the brakes. Sounds like air in the lines somewhere. Brake fluid is cheap and you only need a wrench for the caliper nipple and a piece of tubing to do the job.
If they for some reason let air get into the master cylinder(completely drained the system, or didn’t top it off before it drained the reservoir while bleeding) there is usually a nipple to bleed that up by the fluid reservoir somewhere around the lever.
Brake fluid eats a bunch of stuff…so don’t get that on the paint/plastics, etc.
I don’t really have a place to do that. I took it to Kawasaki, they took it for a spin and said I should replace the brake disc, the brake caliper, the barely used 2023 tires, and the entire bike. They did this with no diagnostic or tests beyond the ride.
Used calipers to check, disc was within spec, then they changed the story to “the previous owner ran it without pads and the caliper left ridges in the disc”, but the lines were basically cosmetic, you could barely feel them.
They claimed to hear rod knock, I didn’t hear it.
So I took it to an independent shop and paid them 80 bucks to spend 2 days looking for problems for me to be aware of.
Thanks, if I can’t just get used to it, maybe I’ll look at handlebars have the same width as the crash pegs, but slope back a few degrees so I can get more leverage and are a couple inches higher so I can be more upright.
Buy a Grom.
Groms cost like 4000 USD.
If you could have a Grom or pay 600 more for a z1000, would you be able to justify the Grom?
It is kinda insane to me that nobody sells cheap beginner bikes in the US. Honda Waves cost 800 USD new and have a semi-automatic gearbox, Honda cb150 verzas go for 1400 new, the closest you get is the crf150L which also costs 4000 dollars.
It’s like they know there’s no alternative so they increase prices to used big bike or car territory. I think lack of accessibility is partly responsible for why motorcycles are so uncommon and aren’t considered a legitimate form of transport in America.
I actually bought a Grom, brand new, but mostly bc I wanted a fun little bike for my short commute. The insanely awesome mileage (140 mpg) helped as well.
A large bike never entered the equation for me.
OK, and if you were at the dealership and they had 8x more bike for just 15% more money, you wouldn’t be required to buy the bigger one?
Not at all.
It all comes down what you want out of the bike. I wanted fun, fuel efficiency, and ease of use.
Sure, the Grom has a ridiculously low top speed, but it accelerates quickly, stops quickly, and is extremely agile. For riding around town, it’s perfect.
That’s all I wanted.
You don’t go to costco and buy 10 lb blocks of cheddar? 1400% more horses for just 15% more money!
I wear size 48 pants even tho I’m a 34, absolutely can’t pass up a bargain when they are the same price.
But seriously I hope you can change the z1000 to suit you.
Yes, I can justify buying the grom for 15% less than what the z1000 costs. That’s why I have two motorcycles!
(the gap is smaller, but still appreciable, honda cb300 and vfr800)
2 bikes expensive.
But I’m keeping my 150cc beater, as a backup.
It is kinda insane to me that nobody sells cheap beginner bikes in the US.
Because no one buys them. Beginners buy used bikes.
Also, do all the math: Grom gas and insurance is the cheapest possible.
You bought a Grom, people want and buy 125s and 150s, despite them costing 4000 dollars. Way more people would buy them if they cost half to a fifth of that like they do over here. The explosion of ebikes is because there has been literally nothing for people who want a small bike or scooter but don’t want to pay 4000 dollars.
The leaning over issue is probably tyres, either low pressure or worn out or the wrong (lower profile) size, could also have been lowered, that’ll really make it a bugger to turn.
The width… Buy a 250. But keep the 1000 obvs.
skill issue
